Bayyana kayan ƙananan kayan da ake amfani da su a cikin kayan ado na Victorian

01 na 09

Abubuwan Kayan Ado na Baƙi na Victorian

Black ya zama babba a cikin 1800s duka a matsayin sanarwa na al'ada da kuma kayan ado na baƙin ciki , wani lokacin da ake magana da ita a matsayin mai dace ya sa a lokacin tsawon lokaci na haraji ga dangi mai ƙauna. Masu amfani da Jewelers sunyi amfani da abubuwa daban-daban masu launin baƙin ciki don ƙirƙirar waɗannan ƙananan kuma sau da yawa suna da wuya a rarrabe, musamman kamar yadda wasu suka kasance da gangan don yin kwaikwayon irin waɗannan abubuwa.

Wannan fasalin yana binciko iri-iri na kayan ado mai ban mamaki na Victorian, tare da kwarewa akan fahimtar su, tare da taimakon Lisa Stockhammer, shugaban uku na Graces (www.georgianjewelry.com), da kuma Pamela Y. Wiggins, masanin kimiyya da kuma marubucin Warman ta Costume Kayan Ado .

A cikin wannan hoton slideshow, za ku koyi game da:

Berlin baƙin ƙarfe

Bog itacen oak

Yanke karfe

Jet na Faransa

Gutta Percha

Jet

Onyx

Vulcanite

02 na 09

Berlin Iron

Ƙarlar Berlin tana kunshe da igiyoyi na baƙin ƙarfe, sau da yawa ana lacquered in black, wanda ya ba su wata ink, matte gama. An tsara shi da manyan kayayyaki masu mahimmanci waɗanda suke da laushi ko alamar gizo-gizo, "Har ila yau, yana da kyau da kuma sanyaya ga taɓawa," in ji Stockhammer. Sassan suna haɗe da madaukai ko zobba, ba su damewa ba, kamar yadda ma'anar sun kasance masu m (saboda haka suna da wariyar wani abu tare da alamomin alamomi). Za a iya yin takalma tare da sunan masu sana'a (Geiss da Edward Schott su biyu ne mafi sanannun), kuma duk da lacquer, na iya nuna alamun tsatsa.

Irin wannan kayan ado ya samo asali ne a Jamus a kusa da 1800 kuma an sanya shi a can, koda yake an yi shi a Faransa, Ostiraliya da abin da yake yanzu Jamhuriyar Czech. Da farko dai ya zama sananne a matsayin alama ta patriotic a shekara ta 1813. A matsayin ɓangare na yakin yaƙi na Prussian na Napoleon I, an karfafa mata ta musanya kayan zinariyar su da duwatsu masu daraja ga ƙananan ƙarfe (wasu daga cikinsu an rubuta su "Na ba zinariya don baƙin ƙarfe "a cikin Jamusanci). Kayan kayan ado a cikin shekarun da suka gabata na karni na 19 an yi su ne a cikin Neoclassical ko Georgian style (zoos, launi, motifs daga tarihin Helenanci ko na Roman). A cikin shekarun da suka wuce, ana amfani da kayan ado na baƙin ƙarfe don kayan ado, kuma ya sake canzawa don yin tunani da Gothic Revival na yau da kullum (pointy arches, trefoils, fourfoils).

03 na 09

Bog Oak

Kamar jet, itacen oak ne itace (ainihin bishiya, fir, Pine ko yew) wanda aka rushe a cikin ratsi ko kwalliya wanda zai zama mai duhu da baki ko duhu cikin launi. Har ila yau yana da nauyi da kuma dumi don taɓawa, amma yawanci yana da matte matte, kamar yadda ya saba da harshen Gishon da ke cikin jet, a cewar Stockhammer.

Yawancin lokaci daga Ireland, ana amfani da itacen oak na kayan ado don kayan ado da suka fara a farkon farkon 1800, amma ya zama mafi shahara a cikin karni na 19. Wannan shi ne ainihin gaskiya bayan shekara ta 1852, lokacin da aka kirkira kayan fasaha don yin amfani da nau'i-nau'i da kuma kayan ado (yin amfani da hawan magunguna ko matsa lamba mai tsanani ga itace). Kodayake ana amfani dasu don kayan ado kamar tattalin arziki na jet, an kuma sa shi don tallafawa fasaha na Irish, tare da wasu abubuwa da aka zana ko kuma sunyi alama tare da gaelic motifs kamar harps ko shamrocks (wanda ba za a dauka kayan ado ba). Za a iya zana abubuwa masu daraja tare da lu'u-lu'u ko zinariya.

04 of 09

Yanke Kayan

Yanke karfe (ainihin mafi launin launin toka fiye da baki a launi) guda sun kunshi kaya-karfe studs da beads da aka soke ko faceted, sa'an nan kuma shirya a cikin alamu da kuma kunshe tare da juna, kuma a karshe juya ko riveted, a kan wani ƙarfe baya. "Ƙaƙwalwar suna nuna alamar saƙar zuma tare da ƙananan fil," kamar yadda Stockhammer ya sanya shi. Yanke karfe yana jin daɗin tabawa, kuma ya kamata ya yi launin launin fata. Akwai kuma alamun tsatsa.

An samo wannan fasahar a Ingila a farkon farkon shekara ta 1600, wanda aka fara ne don buƙule da buttons. Yanke sashi ya fara daukan wasu siffofi ta 1760s, ciki har da zobba, zane-zane, mundaye da ƙananan harsuna don Wedgwood medallions da zoos. Matiyu Boulton wani mawallafi ne na kayan ado na kayan ado. Daga bisani wasu abubuwa sun nuna aikin gine-gine a matsayin tsayayya da samun yatsun da aka zana a cikin wuri, duk da karfe da jan karfe aka yi amfani da su don tallafi.

Ko da yake a fili ba ta da tsada fiye da ƙananan da aka yi da duwatsu masu daraja, kayan ado na kayan ado ba kawai ba ne. Sau da yawa a cikin karni na 19, lokacin da kullun da aka yi a hankali ya zama manufa don "baƙin ciki na biyu" (wani ɓangare daga baya, ƙarami na wucin gadi). A cikin shekarun 1880, Faransanci ya ɗauki jagorancin kayan aikin kayan ado na kayan ado, yana juyo da ɓangaren litattafai masu mahimmanci.

05 na 09

Faransa na Faransa

Jetan Faransanci baƙi ne, ko duhu mai duhu, gilashi maimakon nau'in halitta kamar jet mai gaskiya. Yana jin sanyi, mai nauyi da wuya, kuma tana da haske mai haske. Dutsen da aka sanya daga wannan abu ana tallafawa da nau'i mai nau'in karfe da kuma glued, jingina ko kuma haɗuwa a kan karamin karfe.

Kwancen jetan Faransa a wasu lokutan wani abu ne wanda aka tsara ko kuma hannun hannu don yayi kama da jet, amma zai zama nauyi a cikin sanyi da sanyi don taɓawa idan aka kwatanta da jin dadi na jet. "Idan kana da wata jariri, da kuma gano duk wani kwakwalwan kwamfuta, za su kasance mai lankwasawa, suyi da kuma kusan nau'i-nau'i - kamar guntu a cikin madubi ko gilashi," in ji Stockhammer na jet na Faransa.

An gina shi a farkon karni na 19 kuma an kammala shi a cikin shekarun 1860, irin wannan gilashi an yi shi a Faransa - saboda haka sunan - ko da yake a Austria, Ingila, Jamus, da kuma abin da yanzu shine Jamhuriyar Czech. Saboda yana da yawa mai rahusa don samar da jigilar jigilar, jetan Faransa ta zama tushen farko na baƙin ciki da kuma kayan ado na kayan ado, kamar shinge da aka nuna a nan, a wannan lokacin.

06 na 09

Gutta Percha

Gutta Percha shi ne mai launi mai launi kamar yadda aka samu daga bishiyoyi a kudu maso gabashin Asiya, yawancin Malaysia. Kamar dan uwan ​​da aka yi da roba, mai lalacewa, yana da launin fata-baki a cikin bayyanar (amma yana riƙe da launi mai launi na fata a lokaci mafi kyau), kuma an tsara shi maimakon a sassaka - don haka, "wani lokacin za ku iya gano layi, tare da idanu ko a loupe, "Stockhammer bayanin kula. Za a ba da wani abu mai laushi, mai laushi lokacin da rubbed briskly.

Mafi mahimmanci amma m, ana amfani da shi a farkon shekarun 1840 don kayan ado. A cikin karni na 19, an yi aiki a matsayin mai tsada mai tsada don jet a kayan ado.

07 na 09

Jet

Jet, wani nau'i na itace, wanda shine mafi kyawun abu mafi kyawun baki wanda ake amfani da ita don yin kayan ado na Victorian. Yana da haske a cikin nauyi, kuma mai taushi da dumi don taɓawa.

Ana gani a ƙarƙashin ƙaho, yana da ƙananan ƙwayoyi, ƙwarewa na musamman ko kwakwalwan kwamfuta wanda ya bambanta da jigilar jigilar Faransa (gilashin). Ana iya sassaƙa jet na jigilar ruwa ko faceted, amma koda lokacin da aka yanke shi, yana haskakawa maimakon haskakawa. Ka tuna, duk da haka, jigilar kayan jet da ake nufi don baƙin ciki na farko zai zama baƙar fata ba da haske ba, kuma ba duk kayan jet da aka yi ba don baƙin ciki. An yi kayan ado na Victorian na jet.

Ƙara koyo game da jet:

Ƙin ganewa da gwada Jet

08 na 09

Onyx

Black onyx wani nau'in ma'adini ne ko chalcedony. Yana "iya rikita batun jet na Faransa," in ji Stockhammer, kamar yadda yake da nauyi, mai sanyi ga tabawa da kuma gogewa sosai zuwa ƙare mai zurfi. Jet wanda zai iya samun shimfidar wuri mai haske, a kwatanta, shine haske a nauyi.

Yawancin naix a cikin kayan ado yana da duhu baki don haka launi yana da mahimmanci, wanda za a iya lura da shi lokacin da aka yi nazarin shi tare da jinginar mai siyar.

09 na 09

Vulcanite

Vulcanite wani nau'i ne mai laushi wanda ya hada da hada sulfur da India rubber, sa'annan ya wanke cakuda da yawa. Charles Goodyear yana da alamar inganta tsarin, wanda ya yi watsi da shi a 1844. Vulcanite na iya zama fari ko launuka daban-daban. A sakamakon haka, a cikin tsakiyar da ƙarshen karni na 19, ana amfani da abu mai mahimmanci don yin kwaikwayon kwaikwayon murjani, tarbiyya da jet - musamman ma na karshen, yayin da duhu ya zama mafi shahararrun, musamman ma da yawan kayan makoki.

Kamar jet, yana da nauyi da dumi ko dakin zafin jiki don taɓawa. Amma yayin da za'a iya yi masa laushi zuwa kyakkyawar sheen, ba a yi amfani da shi ba kamar yadda ya zama jigilar gas. Yawancin ƙananan ƙwayoyin cuta suna ƙera, kamar yadda aka yi wa zane-zane, kuma zai iya zama mafi launin launin fata fiye da baƙar fata - abu ya canza launin ruwan kasa a tsawon lokaci da kuma haskakawa zuwa hasken rana.

Stockhammer yayi wannan bayani: Lokacin da aka sanya shi a kan takalmin da ba a taɓa ba shi ko ƙananan ƙwayar fata, vulcanite ya bar launin launin ruwan kasa (amma irin wannan gwajin ya kamata a yi a hankali don kauce wa lalata kayan ado). Wannan hanya ba madaidaici ba ne, duk da haka, tun da jet na iya nuna hali kamar haka. Ka dubi dukan halayen wani kafin ka ɗauka cewa shi ne ƙwayar cuta.

Pamela Y. Wiggins, marubucin Warman's Costume Jewelry , ya ba da gudummawar wannan labarin.